A French seam is a clean finishing technique for seams and is used when sewing lighter weight fabrics. When you are looking for a clean finished interior to an un-lined garment, this is a great technique to use. It is sewn easily along straight seams and while it is possible to perform this technique on curved seams, it requires a certain level of experience.

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In this tutorial, you’ll learn how to sew a gather stitch, how to take up the gathers and finally, how to attach the gathered edge to a corresponding piece. This gathering method explains how to sew a gather stitch with three rows of basting, which is suitable for larger gathered edges or for full gathers. This tutorial is taken from the pages of Boundless Style. You can find this tutorial and many others in Boundless Style.

Let’s get started!

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Stitch in the ditch

When it comes time to finish the inside edges of a garment, such as the inner edge of a waistband, cuff, collar, binding, etc, you can choose to secure the edge with a hand stitch or a machine stitch technique known as stitching in the ditch. This tidy stitch is fast compared to a hand sewn slip stitch and can save you a good bit of time.

This technique works by stitching through the crack of the stitch on the right side of the garment, while securing the under layer in place on the wrong side. This results in a clean finished edge on the inside while creating an invisible stitch on the outside of the garment

Here’s how it’s done...

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::: Tj's Hand Painted Lola :::

Isn't this dress crazy beautiful?!! My jaw dropped when I saw Tj's version of Lola. At first I thought, where the heck did she get that amazing knit and how did she manage to line up the print so perfectly across the panels?!?! But at a closer look, I realized that she DREW. IT . HERSELF!!! This girl has talent!


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We all have that trunk, closet or drawer that overflowing with scraps of fabric left over from previous projects. Too beautiful to throw out and yet too small for another project, these forgotten bits of fabric tend to sit collecting dust. But despair no more for we have the perfect solution! Sewers grab your collection of fabrics and prepare to be very busy creating multiples of the following tutorial as it is both a fun and functional way of using leftovers.


Written by Elizabeth Vandermey


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If you've ever sewn a pocket bag or a neckline facing and you find that the inside parts keep peeking out, trying to steal the spotlight from your beautiful the garment, it's likely because you haven't sewn an understitch along the seam of the finished edge. An understich is generally used along edges where you have inner linings or facings that you want to remain concealed on the inside of the garment. This stitch that will help all those inner parts to stay put, leaving you with crispy clean finished edges!  

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piping covered with self fabric

Adding piping to your seams can add such a special touch. It's totally worth the extra bit of work as it can make your seams more prominent and beautiful. 

Piping comes in lots of different colors and is generealy covered in a basic cotton fabric but it looks extra fancy when you create piping covered with self fabric. Whether your pattern calls for it or not, you can add piping to seams if you want to spruce up the design a little. Here's a little tutorial to show you how to cover store bought piping with self fabric.

self covered piping on Simone dress

I used it here in the Simone dress because I wanted to add prominence to the seamlines of the front placket. I broke up the monotony of the blue fabric by added a running stitch in anchor threads to match the piping in order to integrate the colours.

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title image of curved hems


If you’ve ever had to hem a curved edge, you’ll know how tricky it is to turn, press and stitch it so that it looks neat and tidy. Curved edges are tricky for a few reasons. They involve a bias grainline, which causes the fabric to stretch out. Also, depending on the kind of curve you are working with, whether it be concave or convex, the fabric edge will be longer or shorter in length compared to the area it is being folded to, indicated by the red dashed line in the following diagram...

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